Posts
- 1. Don't Underestimate Size of Skimmer
- 2. Don't Underestimate Lighting Requirements
- 3. Use water purifier
- 4. Avoid Biological or Mechanical Filtration Media
- 5. If You Must do 4 (above), Clean it Every Day
- 6. Install a Fan
- 7. Dose Additives Regularly
- 8. Perform Regular Water Changes
- 9. Feed Sparingly and Remove Unused Portions
- 10. Ensure Proper Circulation
- 11. Dose Kalkwasser Slowly as Make Up Water
- 12. Introduce Herbivores and Detrivores
- Bonus: There are no magic potions!
1. You want the most effective skimmer you can possible afford. Most effective means large and expensive. Don't skimp here. Numerous words have been spent analyzing which type, size, or model is better, so I don't need to repeat them here so check the FAQ on Skimmers. I would suggest you check some of the links in Pipes for more information in choosing one.
2. Standard output florescence won't cut it, and you'll need plenty of blue light provided by actinic bulbs. Whether you chose MH, HO or VHO florescents, your going to have to plan for the guideline of 3 watts/gal. Check the FAQ on Lights for more information.
3. Use must use some sort of water purifier. There's really no way around this; failure to do this will result in unconquerable algae problems, nitrate buildup and possible more dire consequences. For options check the FAQ on Source Water.
4. Avoid all filtration based on biological or mechanical filtering media - because it becomes a "nitrate factory". If you don't know what a nitrate factory is, you haven't read the FAQ yet!
5. If you absolutely insist on using biological or mechanical filtration media, clean it at least every day! - Rinse it thoroughly in fresh water. Cleaning it less often will allow bacteria to grow (and it becomes a "nitrate factory") or longer will allow other organisms to make it their home. When cleaned, they will die, decay and add to the waste in the tank. I sometimes use some filter pads in my overflow but I clean them twice a day!
6. Install a fan for cooling your hood (especially important with MH or VHO lights), aiding gas exchange with tank, and aiding evaporation (which allows you to add more kalkwasser). Also, its tempting to attach it to timers along with the lights, but leaving it on all the time will increase all three benefits mentioned above.
7. Dose additives (Iodine and Strontium are a must) as frequently as can but in tiny portions. Even though 15 drops equals approximately 1 ml, 2 ml per month does not have the same effect as 1 drops/day. In other words if the instructions on your additives gives different values for dosing per month, week or day, use the day method for best results. Do not overdose!
8. Perform regular water changes. Just because your salt manufacturer says their tank hasn't had a water change in a couple years doesn't mean its a good idea, it only removes built up toxins but (often overlooked) replaces those trace elements needed by the inhabitants. You could spend a fortune buying trace elements in bottles but could never come close to the benefits of a water change.
9. Feed sparingly and remove any unused portions. Live foods are healthier, and enjoyed more by most tank inhabitants, and are less likely to spoil. "Target" invertebrate foods can spoil a tank quickly so use very sparingly. Although the idea of "target" food is just what you're after: direct the proper diet to the organism, in order to increase efficiency of feeding and reduce waste.
10. Proper circulation in the tank keeps detritus suspended so it can be eventually removed by the protein skimmer, gives the inhabitants a more realistic environment, keeps gas exchange at the surface efficient (keeping O2 and CO2 balanced, and degasses certain toxins), and moves edible detritus to filter feeders. A few well placed powerheads should do the trick. This also means you have some sort of surface skimmer (this is not the same as a protein skimmer) to remove surface scum that will inhibit gas exchange.
11. Add kalkwasser slowly and for all make up water - doing it wrong is worse than not doing it at all. Please abide by correct use and precautions. I don't think enough has been said clearly enough about dosing kalkwasser so stay tuned for a clear concise article in the near future - Ed.
12. Introduce herbivores and detrivores to reduce algae and detritus build up. Here are some rough stocking level guidelines: Given tank size, one turbo snail per 10 gals, one astrea snail per 2 gallons, one tiny herbivorous hermit crabs per 2 gallons, one tang per 30 gallons, one brittle star per 15 gallons.
Bonus: There are no magic potions! Believe you me, I've tried everything from dancing naked around a fire while swinging a dead chicken over my head, to paying outrageous prices for useless pieces of equipment. The only thing close to a magic potion is the FAQ (and if you haven't read it, I'm going to reach through your screen and smack you!) Only reading as much as you can and applying sound practices can ensure you success as a Reef Keeper.
Written for RTO Features by Todd Zebert. Copyright 1995.
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